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Starting a New Rose
A favourite summer time activity ( in my spare time ) is propagating
a few roses, especially some of the ones I know I will not be able to
replace. Either they are no longer readily available, or they are ones
that were imported from Europe many years ago and I live in fear of
losing. If you’re looking for a particular rose that you don’t have in
your own garden, you will usually find that one of your fellow Rose
Society members willing to part with a few stems of the rose you are
interested in. Another reason to take advantage of the open gardens
members provide.
Before you embark on this enjoyable and mostly rewarding activity,
I should tell you that some roses do not root as successfully as others.
The ones you will have the most success with are the Shrubs, Ramblers, Old
Garden Roses and miniature roses. Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora and Floribunda
roses with some exceptions seem to take longer and are harder to root
without the special misting equipment some large nurseries use. Hybrid
Tea & Floribunda roses sometimes lack the vigour they would otherwise have
on a vigorous root stock.
Starting
a new Rose from
Soft Wood Cuttings
Taking
cuttings from roses can be an economical and rewarding way of expanding
your collection of roses. Duplicating roses in this way is fairly easy to
do, and it’s fascinating watching the new plant emerge and develop. All
one needs to do is follow a few basic techniques and understand just what
the plant actually needs.
One of the most important things to remember is the cuttings need
for moisture. Once the cutting is severed from the mother plant, it no
longer has roots to provide moisture, therefore the air immediately
surrounding the cutting must be kept humid and moist at all times.
This can be accomplished by placing a clear jar, plastic container
or even a plastic bag over the cutting to mimic a mini greenhouse. The
next important item for successful rooting is the rooting media. Ordinary
garden soil is too heavy and not sterile, therefore should not be used.
The media needs to be loose, well aerated, moisture retentive and
sterile. You can mix your own using one part perlite and one part peat
moss, or buy one of the commercially prepared mixes. Most of these
cutting mixes do not contain any nutrients, making it necessary to
fertilize after the cutting has rooted.
The time of year can also play an important part in your rooting
success. Cuttings taken in July or August will root quicker than fall
cuttings, but because of high temperatures, it can be difficult to
maintain moisture levels. Early fall cuttings also root well and because
of cooler temperatures, home gardeners may find it easier to root at this
time. Generally, the end of October is about the limit for high rooting
success.
Many commercial growers provide bottom heat for their cuttings.
This has two main advantages, as it heats the soil, thereby speeding the
rooting process while allowing the tops of the plants to remain cool.
Bottom heat is not essential for the home gardener, but it can increase
your rooting percentage. Soil heating cables can be purchased from many
garden stores and are relatively inexpensive.
Choosing and preparation of cuttings.
When choosing cutting material, select shoots that have just
finished blooming. Use a piece about four inches long for miniature roses
and six to eight inches long for larger roses. The stock plants should be
in excellent health and well watered before the cutting is taken.
Make a cut just above and below a leaf node; your cutting will have
at least two nodes. Strip off all but two sets of leaves and dip the base
of the cutting into #2 or #3 rooting powder. The rooting powder contains
a hormone which induces and speeds the rooting process.
You can omit this step, but your success will be better with rooting
powder. Shake off any excess powder, then stick your cutting into
pre-moistened potting mix. Three mini cuttings will fit nicely into a
four inch pot. Lightly water the cuttings and cover with a plastic or
glass container or plastic bag. After your cuttings have rooted,
carefully repot them into separate four inch pots. ( If you want to watch
roots form on the cuttings, clear plastic drinking cups with holes punched
in the bottom for drainage will give you a view of what’s happening once
the roots start to form. )
When you think your cuttings may be forming roots, don’t pull on
them to confirm you suspicion as the tiny roots are very fragile and you
will break them
Prepare the container you will be using to house the cuttings
before you begin to take your cuttings.
Step by Step Plan for successful cuttings.
-
Cut a stem
piece from a healthy vigorous plant approximately 3 inches for minis and
six to eight inches for most others.
-
Make the
bottom cut just below a leaf node and strip off all but the two top sets
of leaves.
-
Dip the
base of the cutting into #2 or #3 rooting powder, shaking off any excess
powder.
-
Use a stick
or pencil to make a hole in which to insert the cutting. Insert the
cutting approximately one-half it’s length into the hole. Carefully
water cutting in so the potting mix comes in close contact with the
cutting.
-
Cover the
container with a plastic or glass jar or plastic bag to maintain
humidity.
-
Place the
container in a shady spot of the garden or greenhouse.
-
Rooting
will begin in two or three weeks for most varieties, a little longer for
fall cuttings.
This is just one of the many ways there is to root cuttings. Some
rose growers might even consider the outline technique to be complicated
and unnecessary, but I assure you that with a little extra care, even the
beginner can successfully root cuttings.
Note: In Canada, it is legal to take cuttings of roses for your own
use. However, many newer varieties may have trademarked names. These
roses cannot be sold under the trademarked name without paying royalties
to the trademark holder.
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